A Pieced Cotton Haori: Elegant Restraint

early to mid twentieth century
37" x 48", 94 cm x 122 cm

A haori is a jacket worn by both men and women; it is worn over a kimono when traveling outside.

This particular pieced cotton haori is shown here inside-out because of the beautiful arrangement of colored and figured cloth that line the jacket. Very often the linings of haori would be colorful or in some cases bear fanciful, hand painted decoration; this "flashy" aspect of the garment was meant to be known only to the wearer.

This one is in good condition and is still very wearable. The base cloth is a kind of kasuri done in Oshima in the southern or western part of Japan.

The figured lining cloth is a kind of Taisho sarasa or an early 20th century cotton that was vaguely inspired by Indian trade cloth.

The sleeve linings are of kagasuri or mosquito kasuri so-called because of the tiny "mosquito" sized white splashes which form a pattern against the indigo ground.

A handsome thing that could easily be worn as shown--inside-out--or as it was intended to be.