A Nineteenth Century Hemp or Ramie Large Coat: Edo Komon Katazome Pattern

alate nineteenth century
shoulder to hem x sleeve tip to sleeve tip: 35" x 49", 89 cm x 124.5 cm

This is a fully intact, hand stitched over coat which is made of indigo dyed hemp or ramie that was dyed in the katazome process which yielded a type of pattern called Edo komon.

Edo komon is a minuscule, almost-microscopic pattern which is resist dyed onto the cloth: Edo komon, is named such because the all-over patterned cloth was popular in the late Edo period (1603-1868).  

During this time period the central government enforced laws on the population which regulated almost all aspects of life, dress included.  

Most strata of society in Edo era Japan were mandated by the government to dress in subtle, dark colors and small patterns; because of this restriction, elaborate, very small patterned cloth was developed and then became popular, the reason being was that one could still wear figured clothing while not breaking any of the sumptuary laws that were laid down. 

There is a family crest on this coat which shows the emblem of crossed feathers. The family crest is smaller in size than what would have been used during the Edo period or feudal times so it is very likely that this coat was made in the Meiji era (1868-1912) when family crests were emblazoned smaller than in the prior era.

It seems this coat was resist dyed on both sides of the cloth which is a remarkable acheivement.

This is a beautiful, old garment still in very good condition.

Recommended.