A Length of Reddish Brown Toned Katazome Cotton: Over Dyed Kasuri

early twentieth century
55" x 10 3/4", 139.5 cm x 27.25 cm

This length of faded and worn katazome dyed cotton cloth is interesting than most for two reasons.

First is the color which is an iron oxide-derived pigment dye called bengara in Japan. It is not often used to dye entire lengths as this one is. This detail sets this lengths apart from others which are almost always dyed in indigo.

Second is something subtle, barely noticeable and very interesting: the length was stencil resist dyed on a length of kasuri dyed cotton, the kasuri being a very small "mosquito-sized" warp and weft pattern, dark on white.

Because the fading and surface wear to this length were the key details to note it was only after looking carefully at it that the kasuri base cloth revealed itself. It is a rare and delightful detail and one that enhances the appreciation of this already charming cloth.

The length is missing both its selvedges and it is hand stitched from two pieces. The pattern is that of stylized peonies against a background of arabesques.

Very interesting!