A Length of Kumanozome: Rustic Stenciled Moire

late nineteenth, early twentieth century
49 3/4" x 13", 126.25 cm x 33 cm

This is a good-sized length of a type of very particular kind of stenciled cotton cloth known as Kumanozome.

Kumanozome refers to a place of origin, an area near present-day Okayama Prefecture (Kumano=place name/zome=dyeing): Kumano is well-known for producing this type of optically entrancing cloth.  

Kumanozome is immediately recognizable for its decidedly "Op Art" moire effect of undulating, crossing lines. Sometimes contrasting colors and values were used to heighten this effect. 

In this case, the moire effect is created by stencils: bluish indigo dyes are seen in combination with pigment or mineral based dyes to create the dark, cool/neutral colors we see here. The murky color combination is particularly attractive.

This length of Kumanozome is particularly interesting for its bold pattern. It can be characterized as "rustic" since the scale of the moire is large and the stencil dyeing is a bit messy--you can see areas of stray indigo in various parts of the cloth.

This is a wonderful length for its good condition and its wonderful pattern.

Recommended.