A Beautifully Woven Sakiori Vest: Indigo Rag Weft and Bast Warp

early twentieth century
26 1/4" x 13", 66.5 cm x 33 cm

This beautifully faded and very worn vest is a rural work garment, called a sodenashi which literally means "without sleeves." 

It is a sakiori garment which means that it is woven from torn strips of discarded cotton cloth, mostly indigo-dyed. In the case of this faded and worn sodenashi, the warp is set with bast fibers, probably hemp or ramie.

A sodenashi is a work vest that was intended to be worn primarily by those working in mountains, carrying wood or charcoal, or by farmers.

This particular one shows an especially good patina from wear: the cotton weft is slightly abraded and the color is beautifully faded. As well, the tab on the proper right of the sodenashi has become undone and it was stitched back into place using white cotton thread. As well, also on the proper, right side of the sodenashi, at the bottom, we see abrasion in the form of unravelling and this exposes both the cotton rag weft yarns as well as the bast fiber warp.

The inside cotton reinforcement is of a plaid cotton and the black cotton collar piece is a bit unravelled from the body of the garment.

For its fading, patina and wear, this is a wonderful old sodenashi: and it is better yet for its indigo color and its bast warp, which are preferred one when collecting this kind of old sakiori material.

Recommended and quite handsome.