ca. early to mid twentieth century
39" x 54", 99 cm x 137 cm

This is a really lovely, still-bright work coat which is fully lined in pieced, recycled cotton indigo cloth. 

The coat's exterior is pieced from a bodice of subtle cotton shima or stripes with sleeves constructed from indigo dyed kasuri or ikat cloth.  The bottom of the coat is sewn from a deeply dyed indigo katazome or stencil resist dyed cloth, in this case the pattern shown is that of highly stylized butterflies.

By the looks of the katazome cloth, it seems that this coat may be from Japan's Tohoku region, a far-flung north-east place that is remote and still very rural. The long, narrow sleeves of this coat, referred to as "rifle" or tepposode are usually used on garments that are intended for work in the mountains, such as the practice of charcoal making and gathering.

Pay special attention to the kasuri cloth on the proper, right sleeve: note that the splash patterns near the armhole are missing the resist dyed weft threads, creating an interesting contrast to the warp/weft kasuri that continues on the same cloth just below it.

A wonderful jacket with fabulous cloth elements--the rustic katazome butterflies cotton being one of the most charming aspects to this old coat.

Really, really lovely.